Wartime Fashion

Utility Clothes

Day Wear
1945
from *20th Century Fashion*

Day Wear
1947
from *20th Century Fashion*

Light Blue Dress 1940s Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard
Light Blue Dress (close-up detail) 1940s Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard
Light Blue Dress (close-up detail) 1940s Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard
Light Blue Dress (close-up detail) 1940s Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard

In 1940, France was occupied by Germany and the occupation of France would last until 1944. Since Paris had long been the fashion capital of the world, the German occupation had a great effect on fashion around the world because the French designs were not being seen by anyone outside of the country. The war also affected fashion because wartime rationing determined which materials could be commonly used to make clothing. The utility clothing that could be bought with ration coupons was known for boxy silhouettes, padded shoulders, and a militaristic look. With French designs unable to reach America, this created a void for American designers to fill. American designers became inventive with the textiles they used as materials like wool and silk were rationed.

Pink Skirt and Jacket
1940s
Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard

Pink Skirt and Jacket (close-up detail)
1940s
Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard

Playsuits

Striped Jumpsuit (close-up detail)
1940s
Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard

Leisure Wear
1949
from *20th Century Fashion*

Striped Jumpsuit
1940s
Donated by Barrie Jean Souilliard

Playsuits were a popular style for women to wear in the summertime. This item was comprised of a romper that came with a matching wrap-around skirt that tied around the waist. These were great for leisure, the beach, and sports because women could wear the skirt for a more feminine look and remove it when necessary. Also, this style had the added benefit of not needing a zipper, which was important with metal shortages going on during the war.

Small Clutches and Handbags

Pink, Blue, and Green Clutch 1950s Donor Unknown
Pink, Blue, and Green Clutch (close-up detail) 1950s Donor Unknown
Pink, Blue, and Green Clutch 1950s Donor Unknown
White Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp 1950s Donor Unknown
White Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp (close-up detail) 1950s Donor Unknown
White Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp 1950s Donor Unknown
Beaded Clutch 1945 Donated by Marcia Root Walsh ’51
Beaded Clutch (close-up detail) 1945 Donated by Marcia Root Walsh ’51
Beaded Clutch 1945 Donated by Marcia Root Walsh ’51

In the 1940’s, smaller purses and clutches were popular choices for women who wanted to avoid carrying around larger bulkier bags. However, smaller purses also meant having to limit how much a person could carry with them. These purses typically had a strap so the bag could be carried in hand or on one’s shoulder, and they closed with a clasp.

Black Suede Purse with Gold and Red Gem Clasp 1940s Donor Unknown
Black Suede Purse with Gold and Red Gem Clasp (close-up detail) 1940s Donor Unknown
Black Suede Purse with Gold and Red Gem Clasp 1940s Donor Unknown
Brown Leather Purse Late 1940s Donated by Dorothy Simons ’50
Brown Leather Purse Late 1940s Donated by Dorothy Simons ’50
Brown Leather Purse Late 1940s Donated by Dorothy Simons ’50
Navy Leather Purse 1950 Donated by Ellie Laubner
Navy Leather Purse 1950 Donated by Ellie Laubner
Navy Leather Purse 1950 Donated by Ellie Laubner

Scallop Bags

Black Crocheted Purse 1947 Donated by Dorothy Simons Larsen ’50
Black Crocheted Purse (close-up detail) 1947 Donated by Dorothy Simons Larsen ’50
Black Crocheted Purse 1947 Donated by Dorothy Simons Larsen ’50
White Metal Purse with Bakelite Frame 1944 Donated by Jean DeBord ’44
White Metal Purse with Bakelite Frame 1944 Donated by Jean DeBord ’44
Navy Blue Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp 1946 Donor Unknown
Navy Blue Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp (close-up detail) 1946 Donor Unknown
Navy Blue Beaded Clutch with Gem Clasp 1946 Donor Unknown

The scallop-shaped purse was also worn by women in the 1940’s, and it is characterized by its wide bottom that narrows toward the top. This type of purse came in handbag and clutch form. Due to textile rationing, it was also common for women to make their own purses by crocheting or knitting them.

Navy Blue Purse
1950s
Donated by Judy Farmer Miller ’52

Envelope Purses

By far the most common handbag for women in the 1940’s was the envelope style. These purses tended to be simpler and more practical, made from sleek leather so that they would last a long time, and large enough to carry all the essentials—coin purse, lipstick, lighter—with room for extra items. Because of wartime shortages, it was important that people got the longest use they could out of all items they owned, and so a long-lasting leather envelope purse was the right choice for many women. This type of purse typically opened and closed with a clasp and not a zipper as metal was in short supply.